Fri 22 April - Hurricane, UT - more lovely hiking in Zion National park

Today we planned to do a combination of trails, hoping to get more than 10km to hike. 

We should first mention that we always seem to be the first at breakfast here at Super 8. They open at 6.30am and the nice Indian man from Mumbai has it all set up. We chat and make toast and waffles, which we know is a bit of a treat and we share one as they are too big for us after weetbix/cornflakes. The coffee is always hot and fresh. 

With our early start we were in the park and on a shuttle by 8am.  It was noticeably busier today, being Friday than yesterday. 

We get off at stop 6 the Grotto with most of the bus passengers. As you may recall this is the stop for Angels Landing and a group of 5 colleges boys were heading up there. They made us laugh but we figure that they will make it to the top by egging eachother on. Good Luck to them. 

Our intended trails were a combination of Kayenta, Upper Emerald Pools, Middle Emerald pools and the Sand Bench trail to the Court of the Patriarchs. Then along the road to Canyon Junction and back to the Visitors Centre via the Pa'rus trail. See map below of what we walked. All up just over 13km. The white squiggly line to the right is the road we drove yesterday. 

A cool morning and we were alone on the Kayenta Trail for a while and then met a group of about 10 Indians who looked like they were heading towards Angels Landing but not with much hiking gear. Oh well, again good luck to them. 

This balancing rock was truly just resting on this small pointy rock. Brave Hans!

The trail felt like a true hiking path and we were really happy as we wandered along. Of course the pace was slow as we stopped to take so many photos. 

We reached the junction of the trail from Lower Emerald Pools and towards Upper Emerald Pools. 

Clear signage at the junction.  No trail is very long but at least these ones had some climb and unevenness to them so at least we felt like we were hiking. 

The trail here was still cool and quiet, being about 9am. 

They are serious about trying to keep the park as natural as possible. It must be tough with more than 4 million visitors each year. Signs like this appear regularly. 

Neat Upper Emerald Pool we met 2 ladies from Minnesota and chatted for a while. They recommended if we ever visited to do some hiking on the north shore of Lake Superior. Good tip. 

We took a tea break at Upper Emerald Pools.  A friendly squirrel came close but was not aggressive. Several groups were here during the time we took our break but they seemed to be enjoying the peace too so were pretty quiet. 

As you lean back this is what you see above you. There was a tiny waterfall but we can imagine the water sometimes thunders down here. 

Heading back down the path towards Middle Emerald Pool it looks quiet but we met a lot of people coming the other way. 

We turned off toward the Middle Pool and came to a stop. The trail was closed due to "an historic winter". Some wise ass had written "Fix It" next to the sign. We agreed! 

It was getting warm so Di took the opportunity to remove her t-shirt (underneath her hiking shirt) by popping behind this rock. And the opportunity to have a little pee in private. Not with Hans of course. 

We then headed down to Lower Emerald Pool and the little stream Di has pee'd near now gently fell from this overhang. We had been just above here. Funny to think that Di's pee could be mixed in here looking so scenic!

And yes we had to pass under it to continue the trail!

The stream continues down here and joins the Virgjn River in the canyon below. 

No photos of the lower emerald pool trail as I was all concreted and filled with tourists coming end other way. 

We found the start of the Sand Bench trail, which horses use and were much happier. No people. But a good opportunity to practice our Monty Python horse imitations. But no coconuts unfortunately. 

So green and peaceful. No horses were seen on the trail but their evidence was scattered. The occasional horse shit smell did not deter us. Loved being on our own with the occasional "real walker" coming the other way. The trail was sandy rather than rocky which was a nice change. 

And the flora was quite diverse. Hans's favourite cactus were everywhere and some even had lovely purple flowers. 

It did make us sing a little bit of the Max Rabe song "Mein Kleine Grüne Cactus". Perfectly appropriate. 

The towering monoliths are awesome from every angle. 

We continued on for a few kilometres to the Court of the Patriarchs. Here the trails stop and to continue further you need to revert to the roadway. 

Di kept stopping to look up and around. She likes Geology. 

We were close to the road when we came across this guy - a real turkey - and not too smart. 

He kept seeing his own reflection in the shiny bumper of the car and putting on a show. Back and forth he posed, occasionally pecking at the bumper. 

He did look good... For a turkey.

We watched him for about 5 minutes before continuing on. 

The road Is not busy so it's no dangerous to walk along it but we did hustle as it is about a 2.5km stretch.  We stuck to the edges and stopped when the shuttle buses came past. 

This explains why there is no formal trail or path here. The river and landslides would remove it. The edge here was quite soft. One flood and it could go. 

We found the start of the Pa'rus trail without incident and continued along it. It's very easy, paved the whole way and Di included photos in yesterday's blog so nothing further... Except this photo from Hans. Yep, it suits Di. She's as blind as a bat and has some curves!

We arrived back at the visitors Center around 1pm after walking more than 13km. We were pleased with it even though it was pretty easy. We ate our ham rolls for lunch there and then came back to Hurricane. 

By 3pm we were showered and resting, with a load of washing underway. Nice to have some clean clothes. 

We headed out for dinner to a local highly rated BBQ place called Sonny Boy's BBQ. Apparently they had been voted best BBQ in Utah 3 years in a row. But we've been spoiled. Page AZ, Big John's Texas BBQ was so much better.  Here the beef brisket was ok but ribs and collard greens were not up to the standards we've recently received. 

For us it's noticeably better food this trip than in 2013, which is great that we've had so many high quality meals. 

Tomorrow we finally leave Utah and head west. 

Thur 21 April - Hurricane, UT - Angels and Narrows in Zion

Today was meant to be a special occasion. Hans planned to do THE hike in Zion National Park, hiking up to Angel's Landing.

Angel's Landing has been named as one of the most dangerous hikes in USA. It is not recommended for anyone with vertigo as it climbs to a very high steep peak. And with sections with 1,000 feet drop-offs beside a very narrow, rocky trail. Definitely a no go for Di. Hans was a little nervous about what he was about to face. 

The return hike to Angel's Landing and back to Grotto takes about 4 hours, even though it is only 8.7km long. It climbs 453m but in a very short distance. And some sections can only have 1 person moving at a time. 

We left Hurricane by 7.30am and were in the park and on a shuttle bus by 8.15am.  It's a great system where you park at the Visitor's Center (if you arrive early like us). The shuttle bus then takes you to all the key points in the park. 

Hans got out at stop 6 - The Grotto for his walk, and Di continued on to last stop - 9 - The Temple of Sinawava for her first walk. 

Di's Riverside walk was hardly a hike, even wheelchair friendly!  But it was stunning at 8.45am in the morning light and without the crowds that would turn up later. 

Looking back to the large white sandstone monolith known as the White Throne. 

This area is known as the Temple of Sinawava, after an ancient native God. The river is the Virgin River. 

Di started her walk upstream. It was cool and quite dark in the canyon and not ends at The Narrows. More on this later.  

The Mule Deer here are so tame they basically ignore Di...finally!

As easy as this walk is it is truly beautiful. Sorry. Lots of photos to come. You walk beside the Virgin River, which is strongly flowing due to snow melt upstream until the path ends at The Narrows. 

The Narrows are another famous "hike" in Zion National Park but basically you walk in the river the whole way. There are no banks, just steep cliff sides. 

The "trail" is currently closed due to a risk of flash floods. The common period for flash floods is July-September but they had a big dump of snow further north just a few weeks ago (yes, we know - see yesterday's blog). 

The trail winds along the river and every time you round a corner the colours change with the sunlight. It's only short, 3.2 km return and comes to an abrupt end. This is where The Narrows start. Not for us. 

Di took a quiet moment to eat her apple and enjoy the peace and beauty. 

On the way back she was able to walk more along the river bank and this helped dodge the groups now coming up the trail from 9.30am.  Apparently this river moves more than 1m tonnes of rock each year. 

Di chatted to the shuttle bus driver as she headed to her next trail. 

The driver explained that the river is fast paced due to the amount of elevation change - 80 feet drop per mile of river. The river ends at Lake Mead near Las Vegas (aka Hoover Dam).  

He also mentioned a few other interesting facts:

- they still get earthquakes here. The last one was about 20 years ago but he said the noise in the canyon was like a freight train. 

- flash floods and very high water levels have removed the road up the canyon several times. 

- the red colouring on the surface of the road is because the road base uses some of the red cinder from an old volcano near Hurricane.  

The driver pointed out several rockclimbers were on the rock walls - some had stayed over night on the rock face.  Climber's paradise but no photos as the people looked like tiny worms that far up. 

Di hopped the shuttle down to stop 3 - Canyon Junction - to do another little stroll back to the Visitor's Center (about 2.5km) along the Pa'rus Trail beside the river. Not quite as spectacular but largely empty.

Much warmer in the sun. 

Just after 11.15qm  she was back at the Visitors Center and waited for Hans, who was not likely to arrive until 12.30 or 1pm. Fortunately it was a beautiful day and a good spot for a bite for lunch (homemade ham rolls worked well). 

In the mean time, Hans was attempting to hike and climb up to Angel's Landing. That's the peak that you see in the photo below.

The trail goes up and up. You may see some of the other hikers as small dots in the photo below.

Hans was a bit out of breath when he took this photo. The constant ascent can do that to you.

Walter's Wiggles is a set of many compact switchbacks that takes the trail all the way up to the top of the ridge. This goes on for what felt like a very long time.

This section up towards Angels Landing was not scary. Yes, there was a drop but the trail was wide and in good shape.

Scouts Overlook is a viewing area where you get a good view of Angels Landing. Beyond Scouts Overlook it starts to get tricky. Chains start to appear for hikers/climbers to hold on to. You may see some to the right of this "hill".

That first section was fine for Hans, but soon this...

Yep, a very narrow, perhaps 1 meter wide section, with huge drops on either side. With a chain to hold on to.

Nope. Hans is not that crazy! Hans looked at it for a while. Did a futile attempt to overcome the fear, but no. Shitscared! Hans could not do it. This is how a disappointed man looks like.

One more photo for show. Would you go up there?

Hans took a break at Scouts Overlook before heading downhill. Plenty of squirrels there. In one online overview, the squirrels were described by as "aggressively friendly". Too true as they were all around Hans with one squirrel almost entering his backpack. Although they rejected the bit of apple Hans gave  them.

Hans was back at the bottom of Angels Landing by 11am. Going down was difficult on the knees but fast. The path is made of concrete.

Wanting to spend more time in the park, Hans took the shuttle up to Temple of Sinawava.  The Narrows is currently closed due to a risk of flash flooding. Probably from the snow dump a few weeks ago upstream. 

A very differen crowd from what Di met earlier. 

Funny that Hans took a break in the same location as Di. 

Still a lovely trail.

Hans returned on the shuttle and met Di around 12:45.  Yes, there are trails in this park that are wheelchair accessible and the shuttles cope well with this. 

We had our lunch break and catch up on the Morning's news at the visitors Center and decided on a scenic drive long way back to Hurricane. 

The road winds up a different canyon towards Mt Carmel junction, via US89. We had intended to come this way the other day from Bryce but if you recall the connecting road (148) was closed due to snow.  About 2km of the road passes through a tunnel built in 1930.  You approach a rock face similar to the one below but we were not organised enough to take a photo to start with. This is the entry to the shorter tunnel. 

Inside the long tunnel. Which goes on and on until yes, there is a light at the end...

On this eastern side of Zion the rock formations are quite different. This is known as the Checkerboard Mesa due to the squarish lines/blocks. 

We liked it and thought it deserved a selfie.  

And Di liked the angle for a little sun bake. Much less steep than the rest of Zion national park. 

The lizards were pretty friendly too. 

Heading out back to Hurricane is about a 100km trip this way around and yet again we left Utah, went into Arizona near Fredonia, and then back to Utah.  We promise our last time in Arizona for this trip. 

Fredonia Family Dollar got a second visit from us, which had us laughing. This place is a little tin-pot highway town and It was weird to be back a second time. But it made sense as we knew where it was and it was on the way home. We picked up more water and some sweets. 

We had to commemorate with a photo. 

Another swim in the pool when we returned to our Super 8 at Hurricane.  Compared to yesterday the water was like a bath. It's amazing what two days of 28+ degrees does. 

After a rest we went out to dinner at Red Lobster at a nearby town called St George. What a treat. 

From our trip in 2013,  Red Lobster was one of our favourite chain restaurants. Really good value, mid price range, good shrimp dishes a d nice decor.

We looked at the menu and were relieved that the famous Seaside Shrimp Trio still exists as a signature dish. It's amazing and huge but delicious.  It's fried shrimp, garlic Shrimp, and Shrimp pasta Alfredo. Hans just had to have it. It also comes with salad and bread so you waddle out. 

But how nice to have a food seafood meal with a glass of red wine. Very civilised. 

Di thought she was ordering less food with choosing just 2 shrimp dishes but it seemed to be just as big. Again delicious and she ate it all. We even took the spare cheddar biscuits (scones) home with us for breakfast. 

After dinner the sun was setting so we took Ta sunset drive around Hurricane on our return. 

Looks great setting over the ancient volcano (on the left) and rift from the fault line on the right. 

We've really enjoyed staying at Hurricane.  The closest town to the park is a place called Springdale and to us it looks a bit fake, like Disneyland. Just touristy stuff and lots of hotel. Hurricane is a real working town and has a nice feel. 

One more full day here. Good night.